A population explosion has taken place recently in the Metro Magazine coverage area. I can't speak for the number of babies born or folks moving our way, but restaurants are multiplying at a surprising rate.
So many great choices, so little time! It was impossible to cover them all for Metro's spring food issue so I whittled my list down to 10, leaving out several that have surely become favorites by now. Rumor has it that Sharpie's in Beaufort, Blue Note LP and Southern Star in Cary, Jax Grill in Wilson, Blue Fin's in Wake Forest, Cattails in Zebulon and Mura in Raleigh are all keepers, and I look forward to making their acquaintance in the near future.
Of the venues I chose, some are slick and swanky, some small and homey; a few are owned by familiar restaurateurs, others are first efforts. Though the service isn't yet perfect in many, there are none in this group that I found unworthy of a return visit.
How fortunate we are to have such a vast smorgasbord of new restaurants. Metro diners, make your reservations, then go forth and welcome these newcomers to the neighborhood!
AZITRA
Briar Creek Shopping Center, Raleigh
Among the acres of big-box stores and corporate chain restaurants in Briar Creek Shopping Center, there is a curry-scented breath of fresh air. Opened last fall, Azitra introduces to the Triangle a new era in Indian restaurants with the pink drink generation in mind. Goodbye, chai. Hello, Tipsy Turban.
The brainchild of restaurateur, Ashok Arora, Azitra's prototype is Nabob in Virginia Beach. The success of his first Nabob paved the way for two more restaurants in Williamsburg and Newport News.
Arora's winning formula for this nouvelle-Indian restaurant includes a large airy space, funky-contemporary fixtures and dishware, a sleek bar complete with a flat screen TV (tuned to ESPN, of course) and a huge glass-walled wine closet. The mellow sounds of international electronica can be heard softly in the background, and a large patio adjoining the bar promises outside dining in warm weather.
The kitchen's pride and joy is a giant Tandoori to cook most meats and breads. And Azitra's breads are outstanding, particularly the garlic and parsley sprinkled naan. The familiar Indian entres were enjoyable, but appetizers-soups and spinach pakora-were the standouts. Don't forget to save room for dessert. The Azitra Special (carrot pudding with homemade mango ice cream) and Kheer (rice pudding flavored with rose water) are especially satisfying.
Manager Sonny Singh is particularly proud of the bar's extensive drink menu. Besides the aforementioned Tipsy Turban (basically a Cosmopolitan topped off with champagne), there are the Bollywood Cocktail, Snake Charmer, Kama Sutra, Bombay Bellini-a bit of silliness and self-parody that I found delightful. Who says Indians don't have a sense of humor? The Kumars of 42nd Street would be perfectly at home here.
Azitra's reception at Briar Creek has surpassed expectations according to Singh, who previously managed Williamsburg's Nabob. "We love it here in Raleigh," he enthused. "I'm never going back to Williamsburg."
BIN 54
Glen Lennox Shopping Center, Chapel Hill
As I reported in the October issue of Metro, Bin is the cutting edge (no pun intended) in urban steakhouses. Owner George Bakatsias has gambled on finding a deep-pocketed sophisticated core of meat-eaters in Chapel Hill to support this venture, a bold move in the organic veggie-oriented side of the Triangle. So far, so good. Bin has already found its niche, and not just with beefeaters. Chef Dale Ray's consistent offerings-his fish and vegetables are as perfectly prepared as his steaks-showcase his impressive skills gleaned from experiences in the best kitchens in America (see following article), and general manager Brett Jennings supports Dale's food with a thoughtfully selected wine list.
THE FLYING FISH
Downtown Hillsborough
One of Chapel Hill's most popular neighborhood eateries celebrates its 20th birthday this year with a surprise-a baby sister. The Flying Fish, spawned from the owners of the Flying Burrito, occupies a cozy little space in the middle of historic downtown Hillsborough. The place looks and feels like an old ice cream parlor, complete with an old-fashioned tile soda counter (now serving Margaritas). Mayberry, meet Monterrey.
Hungry Hillsboroughans can now stroll downtown for lunch or dinner featuring Phil and Ruth Campbell's distinctive fusion of Mexican and Southern food. The Campbells call their style, "South by Southwest," also the name of their as yet unpublished cookbook. As one would expect, fish is the specialty here, but in addition to hybrid dishes such as Sweet Potato-encrusted Catfish served with green chili cheese grits and tomato poblano gravy; plus Mahi Mahi Fajitas with jicama slaw, and a few more familiar burger and chicken offerings.
The Flying Burrito owes its longevity to its owners' continual presence, as well as their unusual, yet comforting, cooking. With their daughter running the floor at "Fish," the Hillsborough community can expect the same warm reception and inspired recipes that make "The Burrito" so beloved in Chapel Hill.
JK's
North Hills Shopping Center, Raleigh
Many of our readers will argue that JK's isn't new, and they would be right. JK's is a familiar name on the Outer Banks dining scene, serving up the highest quality beef and seafood in Kill Devil Hills for years. But owner J.K. Norfleet couldn't resist the allure of renovation of the new North Hills and rose to the challenge by creating a second JK's.
General manager Chris Queensbury claims that this sophisticated restaurant is very similar to the old one, "just a smidgen more upscale." With its western theme (think downtown Dallas, not Dodge City), one expects a whole lot of cow meat, but "this is not a steakhouse," claims J.K. "We do serve excellent prime Nebraskan beef, but at least half our sales is fresh seafood delivered daily from the coast." I joined Fred Benton for a tasting of CIA-trained Chef Cliff Foglesberg's menu. Guided by Norfleet, we tried his own favorite menu item, grilled lamb chops, and found it superb. Seafood items were first rate, particularly Foglesberg's inspired Walnut Crusted Black Grouper with celeriac fettucini.
JUJUBE
Glen Lennox Shopping Center, Chapel Hill
West Coast chef Charlie Deal arrived in North Carolina this year to partner with long-time Triangle restaurateur George Bakatsias to open three high-concept restaurants.
First to open was Grasshopper in Durham's Ninth Street neighborhood. Within weeks Bin 54 premiered in Chapel Hill. Right next door, Jujube, the partners' third restaurant, teased us with a promising-looking faade for months. Eager diners had to wait almost until the end of the year before discovering its delights.
As slick as Grasshopper is rustic, Jujube's striking interior features brightly colored walls covered, gallery-style, with imposing black and white photographs of Chinese street life. "Shanghai chic" seems to be the idea here. Guests can enjoy a floorshow, if desired, watching wok wizardry at the dining counter, which faces an open kitchen. For more traditional dining, individual tables adjoin a sleek bar. A "Zen garden" foreshadows warm weather lunches and suppers.
Deal's food is startlingly flavorful. His unique cuisine-Chinese and Vietnamese flavor combinations using the highest quality ingredients-is without peer in these parts. Try his Niman Ranch Hanging Roast Pork glazed with hoisin and soy, spicy Lemongrass Grilled Flank Steak or Ginger Roasted Chicken with jujube and shallot compote for a deliciously exotic dining experience.
MERLION RESTAURANT
Southern Village, Chapel Hill
Until Merlion's manager set me straight, I had no idea there existed a distinct cuisine called Singaporean. As far as I know, there was no such animal in North Carolina until a group of homesick ex-pats from that Asian metropolis, hungry for their native flavors, opened a fascinating little dining room in Southern Village last fall.
Melinda Tan, Merlion's general manager, enlightened me. "Singapore is a mixture of many different cultures including British, but the predominant cuisine is a Chinese/ Malay hybrid called Peranakan. Lemongrass, galangal and coriander are the primary seasonings, as well as hot chilis, and seafood, of course, since Singapore began as a fishing village.
"At first, the restaurant featured familiar Thai dishes on the menu to break in our American customers, but we're moving on to more unusual Singaporean favorites." Where Thai ends and Peranakan begins, I can't pinpoint, but Merlion's menu selection is quite different from other Southeast Asian restaurants in our area.
We started with a pancake-wrapped duck salad, fried coconut shrimp, Kueh Pie Tee (jicama, bamboo shoots and tofu in a crispy fried batter cup). Prawn Mee Soup (various types of noodles, shrimp, fish cake and spinach in a delicate broth) and Hor Fun (smoky rice noodles with Chinese sausage, shrimp and greens).
For dessert, we tried Sago pudding, one of the most unusually textured and delicious desserts I've ever experienced. It's a dairy-free mold of tapioca topped with two sauces-one coconut, the second, caramelized palm sugar with a tangy quality reminiscent of cane molasses. It is no less than addictive.
Service at Merlion is its weak point, but I imagine that will improve with experience. Adventurous diners should find Merlion a rewarding experience and a welcome addition to our increasingly international food scene.
115 MIDTOWNE
North Hills Shopping Center, Raleigh
Fooled by the vestigial e on its name, I expected something a bit stodgier than the transitional-style dining room of 115 Midtowne. Kate Cole's succinctly elegant dcor belies the exuberant nature of its cuisine. Chef Scott Cole, who happens to be Kate's husband, describes his own style as "international eclectic."
"I don't shy away from the label 'fusion' and I like to use a lot of flavors on a plate," he explains, "but I try to keep flavors true to the region they came from."
The lightness of our fresh crab and avocado salad on watercress, fresh mint with a citrus vinaigrette was the perfect foil for a heavily spiced Sri Lankan lamb curry. Rich chocolate lava cake with raspberry puree and a cherry-walnut bread pudding with house-made gelato topped off a beautiful meal.
Scott's admirers (including Fred Benton-see "Off the Menu") have followed him from Margaux's where he practiced classical French cooking, to Maximillian's, which he describes as specializing "a bit more 'free-form' than I prefer." Scott is thrilled to be at the helm of his own kitchen at last, and so are we.
THE NASHER CAF
Duke Museum of Art, Durham
The powers-that-be at Duke University pulled off quite a coup when they commissioned one of the great architects in the world, Rafael Vinoly, to design the new Duke Museum of Art. Another stroke of genius was recruiting seasoned Durham caterer Amy Tornquist to operate the museum caf, a significant ingredient in its appeal. I have just one criticism about the collaboration: The caf is open during museum hours, which means only one evening each week. Thursday night at the museum is abuzz with events (lectures, films and concerts) to follow or preface dinner there. So double your pleasure with an evening of both the visual and culinary arts, or enjoy weekday lunches and Sunday brunches at a uniquely satisfying venue in Durham.
RESTAURANT SAINT-JACQUES
Six Forks Road, Raleigh
Every Francophile says the same thing: "In France, they know how to do it right." Though the reference may be fashion, love or the art of living, this Francophile always interprets "it" to mean food. Nothing is better than good French food, and as I wrote in this column last year, Saint-Jacques offers the same menu you would expect from Marseilles to Menton-the gutsy dishes of la cuisine du soleil.
Trained with one of the world's greatest chefs, Roger Verge, owner/manager Lil Lacassagne brings the classic dishes of Provence to the state. Bouillabaisse, Rack of Lamb with Rosemary jus, Moules Mariniere, Coq au Vin, Coquille Saint Jacques (the signature dish-scallops, served on a nest of smoked bacon and julienne fennel with a citrus beurre blanc) are perfectly executed.
Lacassagne has almost a missionary's zeal for sharing the finest French dining experience with his guests. If you have a passion for great food but haven't yet tried this little bistro, make a reservation soon at Saint-Jacques and allow Lacassagne to show you what "doing it right" is all about.
RESTAURANT SAVANNAH
North Hills Shopping Center, Raleigh
Savannah's Bermuda-shuttered faade is positioned to catch the eye as soon as you turn into the main entrance of North Hills. The same post-modern look continues on the inside of the building, a large, attractive contemporary space with a few subtle references to antebellum grandeur.
By the time I arrived, the restaurant's first kitchen team had already left after just a few months, taking with them a menu maybe just a bit too rarified for Savannah's target market.
Owner and executive chef Chris Bender (of Five Star) has quickly filled the gap with the same choices one would expect in a typical low country home or restaurant. The lunch menu featured She-Crab Soup with just the perfect hint of sherry, Shrimp and Grits nicely accented by chunks of Andouille sausage, Crabcakes sauced with creamed corn, Savannah Chicken Salad Sandwich, and a decadently gravy-laden Chicken Pan Pie. Desserts include Sweet Potato Crme Brulee, Banana Bread Pudding and "Trackside Pie," (pecans and coconut in a chess-type baked pie) which has to be Savannah's signature dessert. Don't miss it.
Bender's cuisine is not another creative take on "Southern regional." Encountering these old familiar dishes in such a contemporary setting seems a bit dissonant, yet I found this concept refreshing. I predict that Bender and his partner Vincent Barresi have hit their mark and can expect a long run at North Hills.