Sometimes you really can tell a book by its cover. That old clich often applies to restaurants.
Take a peek through the window of the stylish Elaine’s—you can bet the cooking will be imaginative and unusual. The urban panache of Frazier’s mirrors its chef’s sophisticated, cutting-edge aesthetic. The clubby ambience of Vinnie’s reflects its traditional steakhouse fare, and the exuberant dcor of Parizade anticipates menu combinations that will be fun and a little over-the-top.
Though the outside of brand new 18 Seaboard isn’t quite complete enough to make a statement, the inside echoes its cuisine perfectly. The large brick-walled dining room is understated—the few tasteful adornments succinct and carefully chosen. There is little eye candy to distract from its focus—the food. Happily, the skill of the chef makes each plate’s offering worthy of the spotlight.
The owners, a group of Raleigh professionals and businessmen, recruited exactly the right person for the job to run their “American contemporary” grill in the newly restored Seaboard Station in Raleigh off Peace Street. Hometown boy Jason Smith was trained by Ben Barker at Durham’s Magnolia Grill before leaving the area for a long stint in New York at Gramercy Tavern. Smith’s most recent gig was the award-winning Peninsula Grill in Charleston, S.C., a restaurant I consider to be close to perfection. Why leave when he was perfectly happy working in Chef Robert Carter’s kitchen? The normally modest Smith couldn’t suppress a grin as he claimed “I was made an offer I couldn’t refuse.”
Charleston’s loss is clearly Raleigh’s gain. Now in his own place, Smith combines aspects of Peninsula, Gramercy and a favorite New York eatery, Craft. The result is an ingredient-driven cuisine that reflects his passion for pure flavors. There is nothing overly complicated or flamboyant on the menu. My own term for Smith’s style is “clean”—and I’m not talking about sanitation grade. His kind of food is elegant in its restraint, which I never tire of eating.
For dinner, I would have been happy with a couple of bowls of the excellent chilled cucumber soup. But Smith guided us to several delicious main courses, including corn-meal crusted catfish with smoked corn relish; Carolina wahoo with Champagne tarragon butter and buttermilk mashed potatoes; and a flat iron (hanger) steak with a spicy peppercorn reduction. Dessert standouts were blueberry scone cake with an amazing watermelon ice cream, and a buttermilk pie with Riesling marinated strawberries.
Smith’s commitment to cultivating relationships with local produce, meat and seafood purveyors is reflected in the freshness of his ingredients. It seems almost sinful to sauce his main courses—even though his tend to be healthy vinaigrettes and broth reductions—and, indeed, you don’t have to. Smith encourages guests to mix and match, or skip sauce altogether. “I don’t like saying no,” he confesses. “I want to give people what they want.”
My instinct tells me that Smith’s wholesome style is just what many Triangle diners want.
18 Seaboard is already a welcome new lunch destination for downtown Raleigh professionals. By evening, the restaurant’s second-story balcony is the ideal place to wind down with a citrusy “Seaboard Boxcar” cocktail, watch the sun set over the city, and enjoy a leisurely dinner of Jason Smith’s delectable clean cuisine.
NIBBLES
Metro gourmets can join other passionate foodies from around the country on Labor Day weekend for the Pinehurst Food and Wine Extravaganza—a celebration of gourmet food, fine wine and southern hospitality. Former White House pastry chef Roland Mesnie, and John Ash, author and chef/owner of the eponymous restaurant in Santa Rosa, Calif., will be among the featured guests. Events include a Spanish tapas luncheon, a gala dinner with dancing, and a chef’s competition. Call 800-487-4653 or email pinehurst.info@pinehurst.com for more information.
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Most of us know by now that North Carolina’s wineries compete admirably with some of the better vineyards of California and Oregon. Find out more about our own state’s wineries Aug. 26 by joining Weaver Street Market’s Wine Country Tour. Peg Conway, Weaver Street’s Wine Buyer, will guide participants through the daylong bus tour that will visit Raffaldini Vineyards, Stony Knoll Vineyards, RagApple Lassie, and Hanover Park Vineyards. Breakfast, lunch, snacks, and of course, wine tastings are all provided. Tickets are available at the Carrboro store.
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Any name that conjures up images of southern France is sure to catch my attention, so Riviera, downtown Raleigh at 135 S. Wilmington St., is next on my list of new restaurants to try. Word has it that Chef Steve Prexton’s Salade Nicoise is the real thing, and other items on its Mediterranean-influenced menu target downtown business-lunchers, after hours tapas-noshers, as well as more leisurely diners.
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This month, Michael Dean’s Seafood Grill will relocate to 6004 Falls of Neuse Road in North Ridge Shopping Center, the building was vacated by Sam Snead’s Tavern. The restaurant will continue to feature grilled seafood but will add a raw bar to its repertoire.
(In its old Millbrook location, watch for 1705 PRIME, scheduled to open in late fall.)
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Panciuto (translated, “pot-bellied), featuring Italian and Southern-inspired meals made with local ingredients, opened this summer on Hillsborough’s South Churton Street. Owner/Chef Aaron Vandemark plans to use produce and meats from Orange County farmers as often as possible. Call 919-732-6261 for dinner reservations.
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After a bit of an identity crisis, Chapel Hill’s Spice Street has brought in new chef Michael Opdyke from Parizade to shift the eatery’s focus to Mediterranean cuisine. Opdyke will host regular wine and food tastings on the last Tuesday of each month from 5:30-7 p.m. The cost is $15 per person. The upcoming Aug. 29 tasting will feature cabernet sauvignon wines paired with savory Mediterranean “small plates.” For reservations, call 919-928-8200.
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Kinston welcomes a new restaurant, Chef and the Farmer. The food and the chef are locally grown. “Vivian Howard left Deep Run for New York’s Institute of Culinary Education, then came back with partner Ben Knight and an inspiration.” On the way to the beach, try the result—their new urban-regional style eatery in a restored mule stable on the corner of Heritage and Gordon streets. Phone 252-208-2439 for information.
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The long-anticipated Moore Square Farmer’s Market opened in mid-July and will run until the end of growing season. The goal is “to bring quality local growers and food artisans together for the Raleigh audience and to support and preserve the family farms and the landscape that make North Carolina unique.” Every Wednesday from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. under the shady oak trees in Moore Square Park, downtowners will be able to purchase seasonal fruits and vegetables from local growers, pasture-raised meats from local farmers such as Coon Rock Farm, and handmade items from local artisans, including breads from La Farm Bakery, cheeses from Chapel Hill Creamery, and ice cream from Lumpy’s. Potential growers and artisans can contact Sherri Harris at sherriharris@downtownraleigh.org or 919-832-1231 to request an application.
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Take home those luscious farmer’s market peaches, figs and berries and make ice cream sherbet, sorbet or gelato from my cookbook pick of the month, The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Homemade Ice Cream by frozen dessert guru Dick Warren. Ice/salt ratios, pros and cons of hand-cranked versus electric machines, the history of ice cream, all are here to help you chill out during this month’s sweltering dog days.
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And while you’re in the bookstore, stroll over to the magazine section. In the August issue of Gourmet magazine you will find an article about one of the Triangle’s own legendary gourmets—cooking teacher and potter Siglinda Scarpa—written by native North Carolina cookbook writer Jean Anderson. For information about Scarpa's exquisite handmade cooking pots, visit www.siglindascarpa.com.