With the explosion of new restaurants in Raleigh’s North Hills in 2005, the food scene on the western edge of the Triangle was beginning to feel a little stagnant by comparison. Then, early in 2006, rumors began to circulate about three appealing restaurants underway. After what seemed like a long gestation period, Panciuto arrived on Hillsborough’s Main Street. Then, by year’s end, Piedmont and Rue Cler finally opened within walking distance of each other in downtown Durham.
These restaurants are distinctive in many ways, but they share so many similarities in attitude and aesthetics, I can’t help thinking of them as siblings.
Small and subtly decorated, each of the three occupies a tastefully recycled old urban space, intentionally situated to foster a neighborhood clientele. All are owned by gifted young chefs whose culinary styles focus on a specific European region — yet they use the best North Carolina-grown produce, boutique meats and seafood. Because each kitchen relies on fresh ingredients, selections are limited and change nightly.
Panciuto was the “firstborn,” opening in June to the great joy of Northern Orange County foodlovers, many as excited as new parents. Aaron Vandemark, the owner/chef, studied economics at Emory University before falling in love with the cooking business under the tutelage of brilliant Chef Gennaro Villela of Chapel Hill’s Il Palio Ristorante.
Vandemark’s Northern Italian menu is more like a private dinner party offering a model of elegant restraint: just three first courses, four seconds and a couple of desserts to choose from. Even so, it’s not easy to decide among delicacies — including veal meatballs with butternut squash raviolis with chard in sage brown butter, or braised duck ragu with parpadelle pasta.
Despite its unpretentious atmosphere, Panciuto is the most upscale of the three restaurants (main courses average around $25), a destination worthy of a long drive. It offers dinner only and reservations are recommended. Vandemark’s economical nature resists overbuying; he has been known to close the door when food runs short. You don’t want to get there, taste buds set for the likes of “pan seared quail with polenta with a whiskey balsamic reduction,” then end up with a Big Mac down the street.
On the other hand, Rue Cler takes no reservations at all. Lunch or dinner, just walk in for bistro food, Paris-style: coq au vin, moules frites, Salade Niçoise, soupe à l’oignon gratinée. The owners, who have pleased Brightleaf Square habitués for years with Pop’s, now offer a straightforward menu of French classic dishes in their new downtown enterprise. A fixed price dinner with more creative choices, prepared with the same unfussy approach, is offered every night. But staples such as steak frites, a buttery house pâté and delicate dessert crêpes are always available.
Rue Cler’s menu represents the typical everyday fare of a French café. By now many discerning downtowners are bound to show up on a regular basis, even though — just two blocks away — there is another irresistible enticement: Piedmont.
Named both for our Carolina Piedmont and the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy (Piemonte, abutting the eastern border of France), this bistro attempts to incorporate local products with Piemonte’s earthy cuisine. It succeeds beautifully.
Like Rue Cler, Piedmont is all about comfort food. In cool weather, slow-cooked stews and pastas dominate the menu. Winter minestrone bursts with root vegetable flavors, and the potato gnocchi with duck confit melts in the mouth. I wanted my sausage-stuffed chicken with puréed potatoes and mushrooms to last forever, but my dinner companion, Metro wine editor Barbara Ensrud, insisted that we move to the next course. After the last bite of the delicate crust of apple crostata with crème fraiche, she commented, “This ranks up there with the great desserts!”
Like Rue Cler, prices at Piedmont are moderate, main courses at dinner averaging in the mid-teens, and the selection of unusual French and Italian wines is affordable. Breads, pasta, jams, pickles, sausages — even limoncello — are homemade. I imagine co-chefs Drew Brown and Andy Magowan supervising Italian elves working around the clock in the kitchen. I just hope they never tire out.
Though representing two sides of a national boundary, Rue Cler and Piedmont are almost twins in their perception and realization of the traditional cuisines of the countries they pay homage, and to the pursuit of great everyday food.
NIBBLES
One of Chapel Hill’s oldest restaurants closed the last day of 2006. Aurora, owned and managed by Hank Strauss, may move to another location, but the first Northern Italian eatery in town is, at least for the time being, homeless. Strauss sold its Raleigh Road building to UNC Hospitals. He is currently considering other spots in the Chapel Hill area for a possible new incarnation of the restaurant that has survived two location changes in three decades of operation.
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Restaurant Savannah in North Hills also didn’t survive the year. Kevin and Stacey Jennings of The Urban Food Group (owners of Porter’s City Tavern, Frazier’s and Vivace) will open their newest restaurant, South, in Savannah’s former spot. Inspired by their experiences working at restaurants in Charleston and Atlanta, the Jennings’ new restaurant is expected to open in February. It will feature updated versions of classic Southern dishes — shrimp & grits, fried chicken, cobblers and Mint Juleps — in an urban setting. South will honor gift cards purchased from Savannah.
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Thai food has become one of the most popular cuisines in the Triangle. Viva Thai recently opened on Cary’s Maynard Road, bringing the cooking of respected Bangkok chef Aree to the neighborhood. In Durham, Twisted Noodles is scheduled to open by February behind South Square. Thai cooking classes will be offered Sunday afternoons. Thai Palace, one of the area’s oldest Asian restaurants, is now open for lunch on Chapel Hill’s Raleigh Road.
Still trying to shed holiday pounds? Local Rockfish restaurants are drawing attention to the “Be the Chef” section on their menus. Now diners can customize their meals. Half portions are available, or you may choose fat-free grilled or blackened catfish, trout or shrimp and steamed vegetables and salads for a delicious, low calorie dinner.
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For couples who love to cook, a romantic Valentine could be lessons for two at A Southern Season’s cooking school. In its weekly series, “Taste of the Triangle,” some of February’s featured chefs are Aaron Whittington from Saint-Jacques, Martin Brunner from Max and Moritz Bakery, sous chefs from Magnolia Grill and Carolina CrossRoads, and Amy Tornquist of The Nasher Café, who will be cooking Mexican food from her new eatery, El Diablo.
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Talented chef Maggie Radzwiller, former partner in Durham’s Pop’s and Brightleaf 905, will open a new café this month at 5511 Capital Center, Suite Plaza-180. Radzwiller’s goal is to prove that office building food can be fast, healthy and delicious. Find out more about Comfort Cuisine Café & Catering at www.comfortcuisine.us.
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Metro readers can contact Moreton Neal with news about restaurant events, openings and closings at moretonneal@ yahoo.com.
Panciuto
110 S. Churton St., Hillsborough
(919) 732-6261
Rue Cler
401 E. Chapel Hill St., Durham
(919) 682-8844
Piedmont
401 Foster St., Durham
(919) 683-1213