Gourmet | Moreton Neal | Saint-Jacques, Vinnie’s; Classic Cuisine

Saint-Jacques, Vinnie’s; Classic Cuisine

By Moreton Neal

Though unfocused and not easy to define, “fusion” has been a trend for over a decade, a counterpoint to “American regional” cuisine so popular in the eighties. My first encounter with “fusion” cooking took place at a Chapel Hill restaurant years ago. I’ve repressed the name of the dish, but suffice it to say that Hollandaise sauce will never be improved by adding coconut. Eventually the movement morphed into “global,” an effort to redeem this style of cooking from the irrational exuberance that often creates culture clash on a plate. Lately fusion/global menus have become so popular in the Triangle that the classics have almost been forgotten.
But not quite.

This month I dined in two distinctive restaurants, each with a firm grip on its identity. Each knows exactly what it does best and doesn’t try to stray outside its cultural base. Each is unpretentious and knowledgeable about its audience. Saint-Jacques and Vinnie’s are everything they claim to be. In these two archetypal dining spots there’s no fusion and absolutely no confusion.

Of the two, Saint-Jacques is the baby, but a precocious one. By the time I arrived on the scene, merely months after it opened, the kinks were well ironed out. Though pleasant, there is nothing glamorous about the small dining room. The setting is typical of countless neighborhood bistros in France—white tablecloths, understated simplicity. In that part of the world Saint-Jacques’ menu would offer few surprises, but here in the Triangle-to-the-coast region, the familiar traditional dishes are not easy to come by. Over the years, these flavors have appeared and disappeared in the Triangle, from La Residence (that I founded with former husband Bill Neal) to Mondo Bistro to Tartine’s to Jean Claude’s and Provence. I yearn for this kind of French country cooking (beef daube, bouillabaisse, coq au vin, chocolate mousse, to name a few) so much that I wrote a cookbook as an excuse to taste them again. Now I can throw it away and let Saint-Jacques make all my favorites for me!

My first bite of perfectly seasoned ratatouille, a southern French vegetable stew, evoked the seductive smells and tastes of France’s Provence—and with good reason. Owner Lil Lacassagne hails from that part of the world, and apprenticed with legendary chef Roger Verge at his Michelin three-star restaurant near Nice, Moulins de Mougins. “Passionate” doesn’t begin to describe Lil’s love for his work. His restaurant is a canvas for great culinary art. Like many artists, Lil finds inspiration in dreams (the idea for “blue cheese delicacy,” a Port-infused Roquefort mousse served on puff pastry, came to him while he slept), but it’s a classical rather than a creative approach that gives this place its great appeal. There’s nothing new about mushroom risotto or tournedos Rossini, or seafood with aioli, or escargots with a red wine/shallot sauce. But in the hands of Chef de Cuisine, Alphonse Yapo, they are transcendent, as are his more ambitious creations such as the seared scallops with a smooth vegetable gratin, which included fennel, Belgian endive, and mushrooms. A visit to Saint-Jacques is like going to a museum of classical art. One feels elevated by the experience, reassured that there is still beauty and excellence in the world. Not a bad way to feel after consuming a couple of thousand calories!

What makes Saint-Jacques so special? Lil and his wife/partner Lorianne never veer from focus on their mission: “Our guests always receive what they pay for, never less. We hope, more. We want you to be happy.”

Minus the French accent, these were almost the exact words of Craig Souza, owner of Vinnie’s. A seasoned businessman and long-time habitu of this quintessential American steakhouse, he bought the popular steak house in 2003 from its original owner, Dusty Anderson. Craig shares Lil’s zealous devotion to quality. The key to his success has been… well, cutting the fat. Vinnie’s satellite branches in Durham, Cary and Yonkers are now gone leaving only one restaurant at the original venue on Six Forks Road. There’s no flab on the current Vinnie’s. It’s one lean, mean, cooking machine.

Craig is as passionate as Lil about his restaurant’s food and service. “I wanted to bring back Vinnie’s to the way it used to be when it opened in 1987, an independently owned and operated steakhouse.” On weeknights, Raleigh power-brokers and politicians fill the warm, clubby dining room. The scene shifts on Saturday nights when neighborhood couples flock in for a leisurely dinner to the sounds of a Sinatra-style crooner. “Having the band means we don’t turn tables very often, but we don’t care. It’s our tradition. That’s what Vinnie’s is all about—getting it right.”

Have I mentioned the food? Vinnie’s onion soup, fried lobster, oysters Rockefeller, fresh lump crabmeat, steak Oscar, rack of lamb—it’s all simple, classic, of the highest quality and cooked just exactly right. Even vegetarians can appreciate the tradition here. Creamed spinach, fried squash and mashed potatoes were all beautifully prepared; the fresh asparagus was topped with Hollandaise sauce made the old-fashioned way, entirely coconut-free.

Souza has succeeded in returning Vinnie’s to its traditional roots. There is a timeless feel about the place. The only things missing are autographed photos given by the restaurant’s namesake, professional wrestling impresario Vincent McMahon, and the presence of Dusty Anderson’s mother Rose, who once lovingly ran the front of the house. She remains there in spirit and, I believe, would be quite pleased with the new/old Vinnie’s.

Saint-Jacques and Vinnie’s are classic restaurants of their kind, mature and self-aware. They differ in style, but share a common goal, the happiness of their patrons. How many restaurants offer an implicit guarantee on the menu? “Count on [us] to make your dining experience a lasting and memorable one,” promises Vinnie’s. Saint-Jacques’ claims, “…our truest concern remains, ‘look, listen, smell, and please enjoy yourself.’” Lil adds, “Thank you for letting me express my life’s passion.”

To be thanked for indulging yourself in a great pleasure... isn’t this the way life ought to be? These two restaurateurs are as good as their words. They both love what they do. Their joie de vivre is the real thing, and they are eager to share it. Now that I’ve tasted their food, I’m a believer, and I know where to go to get more of that good loving.

Saint-Jacques French Cuisine
6112 Falls of the Neuse Road, Raleigh
Telephone: 919-862-2770

Vinnie’s Steakhouse and Tavern
7440 Six Forks Road, Raleigh
Telephone: 919-847-7319