German food had been the last thing on my mind when I began this article on the hottest day of summer. Why even think about schnitzel, sauerbraten and späetzle when fresh sweet corn, tomatoes, squash, soft-shelled crab, melons and shrimp — the best of North Carolina’s summer bounty — are served creatively in so many of our local eateries?
Yet despite my natural inclinations for lighter fare this time of year, I suddenly found myself on a plane headed to Wisconsin for dinner at the most famous German restaurant in the US.
Sometimes one thing just leads to another.
Like most food writers, I weed through a daily onslaught of foodie spam — pitches for the latest useless cooking gadget or another frozen yogurt chain opening in our rapidly metastasizing metropolitan area. Then the other day, an eye-catching e-mail appeared out of thin air — Midwestern air to be exact. Midwest Airlines, which initiated service to RDU this summer, claimed to have the best food of any US airline. To prove it, they sent a photo of a beautifully garnished, fat juicy steak.
I must have been hungry when the e-mail came because my finger veered away from delete and hit reply instead.
“Let us fly you to our hub in Milwaukee, and you can experience our wonderful airplane food, the best in the country,” they shot back, an offer I could hardly refuse.
Thus, fighting back my usual airplane phobia, I boarded a non-stop flight to Milwaukee expecting to be distracted by a grand lunch. Instead, I was offered a “snack.” For the price of five bucks, I got half of a turkey salad sandwich served with taco chips and salsa in lieu of a free bag of pretzels. Only because I was on a mission to taste the food, was I willing to fork over the money. Five dollars for half a sandwich! How good could it be? The turkey and salsa were pretty tasty, but certainly not worth the risk of an airport strip search.
Once the plane safely landed, my sour mood dissipated when I was greeted by the airline’s attractive food director, who also happens to be the executive chef of the venerable Mader’s German Restaurant.
Chef Shawn Monroe whisked me off to tour the airline kitchens to show me that the turkey salad and salsa had indeed been made from scratch, as well as the more elaborate meals used on Midwest’s larger planes. After the kitchen tour, he showed me the sights of the city to work up an appetite for dinner at the highly touted Mader’s. Suddenly, I was glad to have eaten such a skimpy lunch.
Situated just across the street from Milwaukee’s famous Usinger’s sausage headquarters, the hundred year old restaurant looks like other old-fashioned Bavarian dining rooms of its ilk, though most, come to think of it, are now defunct (Kolb’s in New Orleans and Luchow’s in New York are distant memories). Mader’s grand dining room has vaulted ceilings, stained glass, displays of beer steins — its décor, charmingly Old World. Autographed pictures of dead celebrities are scattered throughout the halls, all presumably big Mader’s fans. I was pleased to see that Cary Grant was among the group. When Chef Monroe deposited me at a table with Cary’s name on the plaque, I just knew I’d like the place.
Then, one by one, appeared a sampling of classic German cuisine: wiener schnitzel (veal cutlet with a delicate crunchy breading) and buttered späetzle, Bavarian sauerbraten (beef marinated in beer) with a ginger snap sauce, a smoked pork loin with sauerkraut and a fluffy potato dumpling, all served with appropriate beverages — from lager to ale to porter.
On the flight back, I was given another chance to buy a half sandwich, but I was no longer irritated. Next time I fly to Milwaukee, I’ll know to accept Midwest’s free pretzels and save room for another succulent Bavarian spread at Mader’s.
Now addicted to good German fare, I realized that I’d never darkened the door of Raleigh’s only Central European café, J. Betski’s, open since January. Half an hour’s drive from Chapel Hill to Seaboard Avenue in Raleigh no longer seemed very far to go to appease my new cravings.
J. Betski’s space is the opposite of Mader’s — the tiny, sleek dining room is lined with windows that provide a light-filled airiness on summer evenings. The menu, like the décor, is straightforward; just one page of German and other Central European dishes, recognizable classics with a contemporary flair. Dilly sour cream-topped pierogies (Polish dumplings filled with a spiced ground meat reminiscent of ravioli) melt in the mouth. Seared scallops perch on top of a paprika-laden sauce (whimsically called goulash vinaigrette). Holstein schnitzel is served with a fried egg on top, the sweet blandness of the veal cutlet balanced by the pungency of white anchovies, capers and delicate slices of black truffle. Occasionally the chef gives a nod to Mediterranean countries and local seasonal produce. A seared grouper dish was served with a light gazpacho sauce, loaded with fresh diced cucumbers and a touch of tomato. A dessert of house-made quark (a mild creamy cheese) and fresh apricot strudel topped off a lovely meal, enjoyable any time of year.
I have Midwest Airlines to thank for indirectly leading me to J. Betski’s. Not many folks would fly all the way to Milwaukee just for a dinner at Mader’s, but if you find yourself in that attractive city, don’t miss the experience. Meanwhile here at home, J. Betski’s will delight German food lovers, as well as the yet-to-be initiated. And don’t hesitate a second to go there in hot weather. J. Betski’s thermostat is set to the temperature of a perfect autumn day in Munich.
NIBBLES
2007 is shaping up to be the year of downtown Durham, culinarily speaking. The recently renovated area has become a magnet for new independent restaurants, and several popular chefs and restaurateurs from other parts of the Triangle are following Piedmont and Rue Cler to the area.
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Slated to open downtown in September, Six Plates will feature tapas-style portions matched with appropriate wines. The new bistro is the creation of Matt Beeson, formerly of Pop’s and Rue Cler.
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By wintertime, Charlie Deal (chef/ owner of Jujube in Chapel Hill) plans to branch out and open a second upscale, casual restaurant, this one in downtown Durham, to be called Dos Perros. Deal’s followers can look forward to his innovative take on classic Mexican dishes and drinks.
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Even Il Palio’s former chef, Jim Anile, is joining the crowd. He plans to open his own spot called Revolution on Main Street before the end of the year.
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At Duke, The Café at the Nasher Museum of Art, recently closed when Amy Tornquist left to focus on her own new Durham restaurant (Watts Grocery to open later this year), re-opened in July under the direction of George Bakatsias.
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In the Ninth Street area, brand new Blu Seafood and Bar occupies the spot next to Vin Rouge vacated by Bakatsias’ short-lived Asian venture, Grasshopper. Newcomer Chef Tim Lyons brings years of seafood cooking experience from one of Key West’s best restaurants, Louie’s Backyard. Lyons envisions an accessible menu of “clean, simple food” including seafood paella, pan roasted trout and conch fritters in the renovated space he describes as “comfortable, simple, casual and sexy.”
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In Cary, another Floridian, Robert Cardoso, and his wife Aleida, just opened Havana Grill at 404 W. Chatham St. Serving three meals a day, Havana offers Cuban-style omelets for breakfast, a lunch buffet, and Caribbean specialities such as arroz con pollo, ropa vieja and tostones for dinner.
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This summer, Vivace at North Hills began a series of monthly regional Italian wine dinners. Family-style meals, composed of three or four courses, will be paired with the wine of a specific region. On Tuesday evening, Aug. 21, the food and wine of Sicily will be featured. Contact Vivace for reservations at 919-787-7747 or www.vivaceraleigh.com.
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The Pinehurst Wine Festival has become a Labor Day tradition in the Sandhills. From Aug. 30 – Sept. 3, you can celebrate the beginning of harvest season at the posh Pinehurst Resort by tasting over a hundred great wines. By day, learn about food and wine in seminars with world renowned experts and The Angus Barn Iron Chef Walter Royal. After classes, enjoy gala dinners, dances and picnics. See www.pinehurst.com for details or call 800-487-4653.
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In Wilmington’s historic district, curious gourmets can take a peek at other cooks’ kitchens this fall. Raleigh-based tour group “A Going Concern” plans a women-only tour on Saturday Oct. 6. Sign up by Aug. 24 for “Come ‘Round the Back” or drive down for the “Backdoor Kitchen Tour,” a benefit sponsored by ROW (Residents of Old Wilmington).
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The Southern Foodways Alliance brings “Camp Carolina: Preserving the Taste of Place” to Chapel Hill Sept. 7 – 9. Included in the weekend of learning about and celebrating our culinary heritage: bluegrass on the porch at the Carolina Inn; a tour of the Carrboro Farmers’ Market with a talk by Ben Barker of Magnolia Grill; and visits to Peregrine Farm and Siglinda Scarpa’s Goathouse Gallery, Foster’s Market, and much more. To sign up, call 662-915-5993 or e-mail sfamail@olemiss.edu.
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Chef Michael Opdyke, formerly of the Giorgios Hospitality Group, has moved to Roberts At The Franklin Hotel in Chapel Hill. Opdyke has introduced a new bistro menu available every day after 4:00.