Cork Report | Barbara Ensrud | Interesting Year For Wines: Red Outsell Whites; New Containers; Specialty Shops Emerging

Interesting Year For Wines: Red Outsell Whites; New Containers; Specialty Shops Emerging

By Barbara Ensrud

What a year! Early in 2008 we were flying high from rising gas prices to the stock market. In the fourth quarter, we plunged into a recession (we hope nothing worse) that will last well into this new year — and undoubtedly will affect the global wine market.
It was an interesting year for wine in many respects.
Several milestones were celebrated in 2008 by some of America’s most notable wineries. Trefethen Vineyards in Napa Valley celebrated its 40th anniversary. One of the foremost estates of California’s modern era, Trefethen made its name initially with graceful, well-balanced Chardonnays. The 1976 Trefethen Chardonnay won Gault-Millau’s top award for its 1976 Chardonnay. Still a producer of sought-after Chardonnay, Trefethen has become increasingly known for deeply concentrated ageworthy red wines, such as the Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon and the excellent red blend HaLo.
Gundlach-Bundschu, one of Sonoma’s oldest wineries, celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2008. Still family controlled, with Jeff Bunchschu at the helm, G-B produces solid reds and balanced whites from their large estate in Sonoma Valley, the Rhinefarm Vineyard. Highly recommended: Gundlach-Bundschu Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, $25-35 a bottle.
Wente Vineyards, another venerable name in California wine, was founded 125 years ago in Livermore Valley east of San Francisco Bay. I have strong and affectionate memories of Karl Wente, the handsome and soft-spoken grandson of the founder; he reminded me of my own father. Wente steadily evolved over its 125 years, from the days when Wente Grey Riesling was perhaps the best-selling white varietal in the US — to today, with the fifth generation in charge producing excellent Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. A destination if you’re in the Bay Area, known for its excellent restaurant and golf club.

Trends in Progress for 2009
and Beyond…
Red Over White
Red wine sales outpaced whites — 121 million cases to 118 — for the second year in a row. From 1976 to 2006, white wines outsold reds, in some years by a very large margin. The shift back to red is largely due to scientific studies showing the health benefits of drinking red wine. This trend will hold and likely grow this year. And wine drinkers will of course be looking for the best bang for their buck.
Values in red wines for 2009: Pressures on pricing will undoubtedly lead to something of a wine glut, so be on the lookout for markdowns in all categories and stock up.
Malbec. Though limited production of reserve-style Malbecs can fetch $45 and more, Argentina’s best-known red offers excellent value in the $10 to $15 range. Solid, meaty Malbecs are great for grilled meats. Recommended: Graffigna, Colombé, Gascon, Trapiche, Terrazas

Spain. Terrific reds from Spain continue to spill into the US — Garnacha, Tempranillo, Monastrell — from Spain’s copious production in Navarra, La Mancha, Ribera del Duero. Not to forget Rioja, which offers some of the most food-friendly wines at affordable prices, such as the 2006 Loriñon, Conde de Valdemar, El Coto, Campo Viejo Reserva 2004.

South of France. 2007 was an outstanding vintage in the southern Rhône, but 2006 had warm friendly flavors too. Look for reds from Côtes-du-Rhône, Côte du Ventoux, Corbières, Costières de Nimes.

Emerging Whites
Austria. If you haven’t tried crisp, piquant Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s unique white wine, this may be the year for it as Asian and fusion cuisines continue to gain popularity. Grüner Veltliner (groon-er velt-leaner) is drier than Riesling or Pinot Gris, fuller in flavor than Pinot Grigio and a great match with oriental flavors. Appealing by itself, too. There are many good ones. Specially recommended: Laurenz V 2007 Singing Grüner Veltliner, $13.
Austria also produces outstanding Riesling in styles off-dry to lightly sweet to very sweet.

Other trends:
Specialty Wine Shops … are popping up in the Triangle. As with such well-established leaders as The Wine Merchant in Raleigh, Chapel Hill Wine Company and Wine Authorities in Durham, the emphasis is on individual service and hand-picked wine selections.
3 Cups (wine, coffee and tea) has attractive new digs in Chapel Hill’s Village Gate shopping center between Highways 15-501 and Franklin Street (near Whole Foods). The wine selection is not large, but it is thoughtful and well-focused. Very attractive buys in the $12 to $18 range. Tasting flights are offered daily at varying price levels. Check out: Devil’s Corner 2006 Pinot Noir from Tasmania, $14.99. Complete inventory is online at www.3cups.net. You can place an order online, and they will have your bottles ready for pickup and payment at your convenience.

BrandyWine Cellars, Renaissance Center across from Southpoint Mall (www.brandywinecellars.com). BrandyWine reminds me of Spain’s bodegas, as wine bars and wine shops are known there. Attractive recessed stucco niches line the walls, stacked with black metal shelving filled with intriguing wines. A horseshoe-shaped bar in the center and an area of high-table seating proves inviting at the shop’s frequent specialty tastings.
Eco-packaging: The “greening” of the marketing world certainly extends to wine. In an effort to reduce their “carbon footprint,” more companies are turning to alternative packaging: boxes, plastic bottles, even cans (from Australia, where else?).
It’s the consumer’s call, of course, but I will have none of this! I only drink
wines shipped in glass bottles — and only drink them out of genuine glass, whether tumblers or stemmed glasses, since it is my belief that alcohol beverages leach synthetics out of plastic containers and possibly aluminum cans. Though beer is served in cans, wines have more alcohol than beer — by a lot, double or more the amount.
I also find that the taste and aroma is negatively affected, especially aroma, a major aspect of the enjoyment of wine. Granted, those who start out drinking wine from cans or plastics probably won’t notice a difference — but they don’t know what they’re missing!
The advance I do applaud in wine packaging is the move by Fetzer Vineyards’ to lighter glass — real glass but thinner, reducing bottle weight by 16 percent for its value line, Valley Oaks Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and other wines. Fetzer has won several eco awards for being a leader in waste reduction, water conservation, recycling and other sustainable practices.
Best wishes for the New Year — may it abound with good bottles and good friends to share them.