Cork Report | Barbara Ensrud | Forces Of Universe Improve Wines: Biodynamics Catching On

Forces Of Universe Improve Wines: Biodynamics Catching On

By Barbara Ensrud

February is the “heartfelt” month. Wine is healthy for the heart, as we know, in moderation. Healthy vines produce even healthier wines — more honest, more balanced, free of additives — and they taste good!
The wave of vineyards worldwide going organic is major, verging on tsunamic. Once we were leery of wines from organic grapes — and, admittedly, early ones seemed a little off-kilter. As top profile winemakers turned to organically grown grapes, however, quality and flavor began to shine. Taste Robert Sinskey Pinot Noir, Bonterra Viognier, Frey Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blancs from Frog’s Leap or Patianna, Coppola’s Rubicon and dozens of others — many exceptional, as their critical ratings and awards confirm.
But there is an even more intriguing, somewhat mysterious, definitely controversial move in wine-growing and wine-making that is beyond organic: biodynamics.
The difference: organic vineyards are farmed without using pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers.
Biodynamics takes organic principles further than simply do no harm. Through labor-intensive practices, biodynamic growers actually replenish the soil with natural organic preparations that — here’s the somewhat mystical and controversial part — attract cosmic influences that unleash the life forces in the earth and the plants. “So the earth may be healed,” wrote Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925), the Austrian philosopher, scientist and visionary who laid down biodynamic principles for farming in the early 20th century, paving the way for the eco-movement in this one.
Some of the techniques do seem a little bizarre:
• stuffing a cowhorn with cow manure or ground quartz and burying it at the equinox for six months
• fermenting yarrow flowers in a deer’s bladder
• adding the juices of chamomile flowers or dandelion to compost
• spraying horsetail tea on vine foliage to prevent fungus

These and other biodynamic “preps” are mixed with spring water, stirred vigorously for one hour to intensify their potency, then sprayed on the soil, enhancing root systems and soil fertility — in effect boosting the immune system of the vine to better withstand onslaught from pests, weeds and disease. Sheep are kept to mow cover crops in spring, their little feet also aerating the soil. Nesting boxes for bluebirds and purple swallowtails help control insects.
Astonishingly, it appears to work — growers find not only stronger vines, but also positive effects on wine aromas and flavors. “Biodynamics deals with how we might seek to harmonize our farming practices with the subtle forces of the universe,” said innovative winemaker Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, “following the astronomical calendar, availing ourselves of free cosmic fertilizer, you might say.”
It all might seem a bit “woo-woo” except for the fact that some of the most prestigious wine estates in the world have embraced biodynamic practices — Domaines Leroy, Leflaive, Dujac, Comte Lafon in Burgundy, Zind-Humbrecht, the top name in Alsace, M. Chapoutier in the Rhône and numerous others. Biodynamic farming in Europe — both in foodstuffs and wine — is huge and growing. And it is gaining adherents in this country too.
I recently visited one of California’s newest biodynamic estates, Truett-Hurst, in Dry Creek Valley near Healdsburg in Sonoma County. In Dry Creek’s rushing waters and rocky bed, trout flourish and salmon come 50 miles inland from the Pacific to spawn. You can see them from the bank.
“We draw water from the creek and sit here stirring our preps in half barrels,” said Ginny Lambrix, winemaker and partner at Truett-Hurst. “The hour goes by quickly.”
Planting, cultivating and harvesting according to lunar cycles and astrological influences also plays a significant role in biodynamic farming. The 14 acres of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah were scheduled for planting when Lambrix came aboard in July 2008. “I was so eager to get the vineyard going,” she said, as we stood among the young vines. It was already late to start planting, but the lunar phase was wrong.
“I was really nervous having to wait, but the very week they would have started to germinate, we had a terrific heat spike — it would have fried those little plants! A week later, things cooled down with perfect conditions for planting.”
Hmmmm … it’s as if the universe, in its movement about the galaxy, “knows” far more than we can imagine; there are forces at work whether or not scientists can see or prove their existence. Why not? We can’t “see” magnetic or electric forces, but we can see the effects of them. And as growers see the results of working with their plot of earth, treating it as the living organism it is, using preparations to nourish and revitalize it, they’re convinced. And on a much tinier scale, I am as well.
Paul Dolan, one of the pioneering biodynamic proponents at Dark Horse Vineyards in California kindly sent me a manure-stuffed cowhorn last spring. Buried the previous fall, it had turned into rich, black, particle-fine soil. I roped two friends into helping me stir it in five gallons of spring water, 20 minutes each, creating the deep vortex of swirling water that synergizes all the elements. It worked amazingly fast on my compost pile, and I noticed that where I sprayed it on my flower and herb beds, the seeds germinated well and the plants had stronger stems. It seems to help amend my sticky red clay areas quite nicely too.
I won’t garden without these aids now. If it interests you, Google the Josephine Porter Institute in Virginia. They stock horned manure and other biodynamic mixtures you can buy.
Meantime, search out one of the recommended wines [below] to share with your heart’s delight on Valentine’s Day. It may work some magic for both of you!

Wine Buys of the Month
All of these wines are organically or biodynamically grown.
If you don’t find them in stock locally, stores can order them. All are available online.
Prices are approximate retail.

Bonterra Syrah 2006, Mendocino, $17
Ca’ del Solo 1007 Albariño, California, $18-20
Casa Lapostolle 2006 Merlot, Chile, $20
Château Bousquette 2007, St. Chinian (dry rosé), $15
Domaine des Cèdres Côte-du-Rhône 2007, $15
Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Meysonniers 2007, $30
King Estate 2007 Pinot Gris, Oregon, $17
2006 Pinot Noir, Oregon, $29
Domaine Leflaive 2006 Macon-Verzé, $31
Paul Dolan 2006 Zinfandel, Mendocino, $20
Robert Sinskey 2006 Pinot Noir, Carneros, $35
Sauvignon Blancs 2007: Frog’s Leap, Patianna, Paul Dolan, Sauvignon Republic Potter Valley, $18, Arboleda 2007, Chile
Truett-Hurst 2006 Zinfandel Three Vineyards, $25
Kreydenweiss Perrières 2005, France, $15
Pierre Morey Meursault 2006, France, $95-$130
Jolivet Pouilly-Fumé 2007, Loire, $22
Torino CUMA Malbec 2007, Argentina, $13
Rapitala Nero d'Avola 2006, Sicily, $14