Southern Style | Molly Fulghum Heintz | Practical and Whimsical Design Sets Tone For Spring Fashion

Practical and Whimsical Design Sets Tone For Spring Fashion

By Molly Fulghum Heintz

“Design Loves a Depression,” a recent New York Times article by Michael Cannell, argued the current economy was good for the state of design, forcing designers from all fields to come back down to earth and focus on what they do best — problem solving — rather than generating overpriced froufrou. In many cases over the last few years, Cannell wrote, “form followed frivolity.” The article ignited a sharp debate within the design community about the role of design and retail. What is the place of creativity and whimsy in tough times? A certain sense of gravitas seems appropriate but not at the cost of imagination.
In the fashion world, spring’s lineup has an ambiguous vibe that vacillates between the practical and the fanciful. An example of the former: jumpsuits. What could be more utilitarian? With full-length pants or romper-style shorts, the one-piece jumpsuit is a sassy but simple insta-outfit. Already popular in women’s fashion of the ’70s and ’80s, the jumpsuit has a long history as a convenient onesie for adults, sported by everyone from astronauts to factory workers. Check out the new luxe versions from Yves Saint Laurent, Thakoon and Helmut Lang. The shirtdress is another comfortable and no-nonsense style making a comeback this spring. Usually a button-up with a self-belt, the shirtdress is an excellent option for the office. Burberry’s ruffled shirtdress in “high-tech” taffeta is feminine but also business-like.
Accessories, on the other hand, are completely unruly, especially in the shoe department. Convinced that consumers need a reason (i.e., excuse) to shop, and knowing that falling in love causes logic to fly out the window, designers have created spring selections that are meant to be pure objects of desire versus sensible purchases. Among the most extreme examples: Calvin Klein’s super-architectural pumps with a metal mesh-wrapped heel; Dries Van Noten’

s arts-and-crafts ankle wrap sandal; Giambattista Valli’s lace stiletto upgraded to a platform in an elegant but minimal way; Lanvin’s sequin- and jewel-encrusted pump fit for royalty; the seemingly Mardi Gras-inspired Louis Vuitton open-toed bootie; and Christian Dior’s platform sandals with a heel carved in the shape of a small Masai fertility goddess (Sigmund Freud would have a field day with that one). Last summer’s must-have, the gladiator sandal, is also back in fine form.

Show Some Shoulder
While retailers work to attract cost-conscious shoppers this spring, it is fashion houses who are giving customers the cold shoulder — literally. Not since the days of togas, chariot racing and gladiator sandals worn by actual gladiators has the deltoid received so much exposure.
Traditionally, the revelation of a little shoulder is reserved for evening, but this season the style is strong for daytime as well. Check out Chloé’s jersey “day dress,” Michael Kors’ versatile draped one-shoulder column, as well as Calvin Klein’s boxy silk one-shoulder mini — and the full-length goddess-worthy satin and chiffon creations from Elie Saab, Hermès and Stephen Burrows for evening.

Consignments Online
The consignment shop is one type of retailer receiving a boost from the current state of affairs. Covetshop.com, a smart new online site scheduled to launch in April, brings the consignment business to the Web. Covetshop specializes in high-end women’s designer clothing, handbags, shoes, with authenticity guaranteed. Sellers can recoup some of the expense of a pricey purchase and buyers can find steals on designer pieces — it’s a win-win situation, equal parts practical and fanciful. ©