“Christmas is coming … the geese are getting fat…”
This little ditty played in my mind the other day as I passed
a flock of Canada geese feeding on lush green grass. They were indeed “fat” and
got me thinking about the family feasts of Christmases past. Goose was often on
the table, or duck, fresh from hunting forays in the river bottoms of the
Arkansas and Mississippi rivers where the birds stopped to rest and feed on
their way to the marshes of coastal Louisiana.
I’m planning on goose this Christmas Eve — probably not wild,
though, unless I get lucky. But it will give me the chance to browse through
the cellar and sleuth out a good Burgundy or Pinot Noir to serve with it.
Nothing suits the rich flavors of goose or duck like a fine Pinot. Good Pinot
Noir (especially red Burgundy, which is made 100 percent from the pinot grape)
is expensive — the most sought-after labels going for $90 and up. Does $150
sound like a lot? That’s the asking price for a 2005 Charmes-Chambertin.
Peanuts. The extravagantly intense 2005 from Joseph Roty, one of my favorite
producers, goes for over $800! A bottle.
Not that I have any! But I’m happy to report that there are
some fairly gorgeous California Pinots out there at more affordable prices — in
the $35 range, which isn’t bad for a special dinner.
The 2007 vintage was outstanding in Pinot regions in
California — the “best ever,” declared the Wine
Spectator. I found it especially so along the cool Sonoma Coast and Russian
River Valley regions of western Sonoma. Tasting with Dan Kosta and Michael
Browne in September, I was pretty bowled over by the rich and intense 2007s of Kosta Browne, whose Pinots are snapped
up so quickly they are virtually unavailable unless you’re on their mailing
list (with 14,000 names on the wait list). I was equally impressed by the
refined but elegantly juicy 2007s at Russian
Hill Estate — somewhat more readily available, and worth a search. The ’07
Russian River Pinot from Russian Hill is delicious, very drinkable right now,
about $32.
I also liked Merry
Edwards Sonoma Coast 2007 Pinot, $36, ripe and round, an excellent choice
for roast goose. Like all superior vintages, the 2007 exhibits its generosity
across the board. Even some of the less expensive Pinots managed to capture its
charm, as in Castle Rock Sonoma, $12, and Estancia from Monterey, $15.
Pinot Noir is the way to go with holiday game birds,
including roast turkey and Cornish hens. Here are some other Pinot Noirs I’ve
tasted recently and highly recommend (including a few 2006s):
Buena Vista 2006
Carneros, $24; Chateau St. Jean 2007,
$20; Davis Bynum 2007, $35; Lockwood Block 7 2007, $19; MacMurry Ranch 2007, $28; MacPhail Sonoma Coast 2007, $45; Mahoney Las Brisas 2006, $20; Marimar Estate Doña Margarita 2007, $40; Sanford Santa Rita Hills 2007, $29-32; Sebastiani 2007, $26, Willowbrook
JCO 2007, $34.
A holiday feast has to end on the right note, a flourishing
finish to a great meal. I plan to serve Andrew Quady’s delectable Elysium, $16, made from the black
muscat grape, least known of the muscats. This brightly sweet, exotically
aromatic nectar is incomparable with chocolate desserts — anything from
truffles to a dense and decadent flourless chocolate cake. Some might prefer Quady Orange Muscat, $13, which has a
distinctive flavor of orange zest tinged with honey — great with pumpkin pie.
GIFTS FOR THE WINE
LOVER
Though some shy away from giving wine as a gift, there are
some bottles that would please any wine buff — something to drink now, such as
any of the wines mentioned above, or sparkling wine, or something to tuck away
for future pleasure. It depends on your budget, of course, but if you want to
splurge a little, here are some more suggestions.
Mayacamas 1996 Cabernet
Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $150. Noted for exquisite ageworthy Cabernets,
Mayacamas has just released this Library Selection. With vibrant flavors of
black currant, this Cabernet could easily go another five to eight years, but
would handsomely suit a fine roast of beef or lamb right now. The current
release, Mayacamas 2004, $65,
reminds me of the fabulous 1984 I opened in 2006 and — at 22 years of age —
found it to be one of the loveliest California Cabernets I ever tasted!
Shafer Hillside Select
Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $215. One of the top Cabernets from Napa Valley,
this bold and powerful wine from the highly touted 2005 vintage will likely
escalate in price as it becomes rarer. Look for it online if you don’t spot it
locally.
Il Poggione Brunello
di Montalcino 2004, Tuscany, $70-75. A splendid Brunello, deeply elegant
and balanced; smooth even now, but of course ageworthy.
Schramsberg 2006 Brut Rosé, $43. Schramsberg is making its best sparkling wines
ever, dry and scintillating — the dazzling coral Brut Rosé makes a festive
holiday gift.
Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial NV, $37. Start off your New Year’s Eve on an elegant note
with Champagne Cocktails. I recently made Champagne Cocktails with the Brut
Imperial (angostura bitters drizzled over a sugar cube or two, then topped with
the bubbly and garnished with a twist of orange peel) and they were stunning.
J Cuvée Brut NV,
Russian River Valley, $20. Graceful and elegant, a perfect hostess gift for the
holiday season.
Gadgets. The Wine Diaper, $3.99. A must for the international
traveler who wants to bring home a special bottle safely. The fleece-lined
plastic wrapper can be sealed in case of spillage. Great stocking stuffers — it
also works for other liquids, such as olive oil.
Vinturi Wine Aerator, $30-40. Wine needs to breathe — and it
couldn’t be quicker and easier than with this sleekly designed implement: For
young reds that need aeration, or older wines that need decanting off sediment.
Books. The Concise World
Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson (Mitchell Beazley,
$29.99). Two of the world’s greatest wine authorities, Johnson and Robinson
have produced this indispensable reference book, updating the global landscape
of wine with detailed maps, including new and emerging wine regions.